We took a booze cruise down the Zambezi river.
The occupants of the ship consisted of the crew, a Ugandan/Zambian couple, and us. Oh, and an entire art program from a magnet school outside Ft. Worth, Texas— with their chaperones. No drinking for them. But, what could us lushes on the boat do when Captain Joe told us to drink the bar out?
The best part is I wasn’t breaking any “contributing to the delinquency” laws by slipping beers to the kids.
However, it wasn’t all fun and hijinks. There were wild hippos and crocodiles to avoid being thrown into by teetotal adults.
The Jollyboys in Livingstone were the nicest lodging we’ve thus found. Too nice, in fact.
I was put off by the seasonal clientele of tanning college and high-school students. Neither seemed interested in leaving the walls of the compound except to see the big five on organized tours or get an altruism high by building schools. Both seemed very interested in the cheap alcohol and expensive variations of western food.
It doesn’t help that I had my camera stolen— likely by Americans.
But, the Jollyboys lodging was excellent. And, the staff were kind and helpful.
Highly recommended!
The prettiest border crossing I’ve seen is the Kazungula crossing into Zambia.
On the Botswana side, we took a morning drive through game reserves on the way to the border. The sealed road soaks up the daytime heat; and, during the night, animals will lay out to enjoy its warm surface. Their rest is finally broken by the sound of a horn— our horns.
It’s hard to describe how bizarre it is, watching a family of giraffe run for their lives from a bus. They scramble sideways, necks leaning precipitously. And, the only side of their radial herbivore eyes you can see are wide-open in fear.
Botswana passport control and customs are painless. You fill out a short form; and, start walking into savannah that stretches to the horizon. But, after less than a kilometre, a glistening river appears out of nowhere.
I’m used to mountain rivers. They’re fast, loud and found in valleys. But, the Zambezi river is 400 metres of flat, silent and blue water.
Excepting the muffled sound of the pontoon boats, slowly ferrying cars and passengers, the shores are silent.
It’s nice.
Nicole put us on to the Gaborone - Lusaka Express. Their overnight timetable was perfect. Leaving at 20:00, we would arrive sometime the next morning at the Kazangula border crossing into Zambia.
Stuck in my head since we arrived in Africa.
I found an acoustic cover on YouTube; but, Chris threatened to smash my guitar if I play it.
- Litha
When you think about excellence in today’s modern world, the T. J. Motlogelwa’s group we have it all starting from the high class of people to the low class. We there fore, recommend no panic when dealing with the T. J. group of companies.
Every guidebook and website recommends one of two ways between Jozi and Gabs: the Intercape Mainliner ($20) or minibus taxis (< $10). And, if these were the only choices, the decision would be obvious. Six hours in a cramped minibus?
Fortunately, it’s a false dichotomy.
I was desperate to get out of Jozi. We visited Park station, and I inquired at the desk of every bus company. Finally, after Intercape regrettably informed me (again) of their lack of seats, I asked “is there any other way?”
“Be here, tomorrow, at 7am.” “And you have a bus?” How did I miss this? “There will be a bus. Just ask the desk, they’ll tell you.”
We arrived at six.
“I’m here for the bus to Gaborone.” “We’re booked up.” “I was told there was a bus at 7am.” “Go outside, take left. It’s blue and white.”
I walked outside.
“Where is this bus going?” “Gabs.” “Cool.”
Just as fast, just as comfortable, and they’re even R20 cheaper. Pay when you get on.
The only hostel in Botswana is a collection of nice huts (R120/pp) and camping spaces (R75/pp) inside a walled area.
“Mokolodi” because the property is adjacent to the game reserve of the same name.
Make arrangements early. And, have a backup plan.
I’ve been responsible for arranging our transportation across Africa. My overall gameplan has been to follow the rail and bus network to Nairobi. Of course, there have been snags along the way.
Right now, I’m sitting comfortably at a backpackers in Johannesburg. I wanted to leave yesterday for Botswana. I really wanted to leave today. But, after contacting the only backpackers in Gaborone, we decided to leave on Sunday.
This threw off all our transportation arrangements. And, now, there is no regular bus service available. We’re stuck in Jozi.
I expected these kinds of snafus. Presumably, this is the first of many— I needed to vent.
The Jozi Taxi Rank, corner of Bree and West in the CBD.
The culture of fear almost prevented us from taking the minibuses. And that would have been a terrible mistake!
The minibuses service black workers, families and other commuters. The minibuses themselves are owned and ran by the drivers. They are sketchier than a private car. That comes along with the price difference of R7 as opposed to R100 to get across town.
At the taxi rank, don’t ask just any driver if they’re going where you want to go. They’ll answer “yes” to get your fare. Instead, look at the signs! All the major districts are marked. And, if your destination is odd, ask either the driver of a departing minibus or buy some fruit (R2) and ask the shopkeeper.
Long story short: just as fast as a taxi, cheaper, and probably safer since you’re with other people trying to get to the same place.
We ate at Jozi street market. R25 for a delicious Xhosa meal cooked out in the open.
A derailment delayed our train to Johannesburg.
- Jessica, while we were practising Xhosa.
Shosholoza Meyl promises that each of our passengers will be treated to “A Pleasant Experience” from the moment they book and buy their ticket, throughout their journey by train until they disembark at their end destination.
Cape Town to Jo’Burg for the low price of R390!
